The dehumidifier is a niche product. Its only job is to remove excess moisture
from household room air. A dehumidifier can be used to reduce the problems of mould and
mildew associated with high humidity. Both of these have been linked to
the increased incidence of allergies and asthma in children.
It's
similar in operation to a window air conditioner. But, while an air conditioner removes
heat from the room, a dehumidifiers primary purpose is to remove
moisture.
The
dehumidifier is an appliance that requires regular maintenance. If not it can ice up, overflow, cease removing moisture,
become noisy, inefficient, or fail completely. The
following is a step-by-step method used to return yours to
its peak efficiency.
Tools
required
1
Multi section container ( ice cube tray or egg carton)
2 Long handled narrow brush
3 Oil can
4 Rags
5 De-greaser or spray detergent
6 Selection of screwdrivers
7 New filter
1…
Remove water collection bucket and put aside.
2…
Remove the filter from rear of machine. Filter is usually within a frame
and simply pops out. If no filter proceed to next step. If uses a
disposable filter simply replace it with a new one. Other types are made
in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean filter lay flat in sink and sprinkle surface with powder laundry detergent.
Fill sink with enough hot water to submerge filter. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and rinse. Hang up to
dry while proceeding to next step.
3…
Remove the rear grille from the main body of de-humidifier. If none
proceed to next step. If rear grille offers resistance then look for hidden
screws. If grille locks into cover proceed to next step. Once removed
place the grille aside until later.
TECHNICIANS
HINT: Dehumidifier may use different types and sizes of screws. Use
multi section container to segregate.
4…
Remove metal cover of de-humidifier to access inner workings. Cover
screws may be difficult to see because are often painted to match body
color. Look for two or three screws along each side of base. Once screws
are removed lift the cover straight up. Use extreme caution at this
point. Front grille may be secured to cover. Some fronts are put
together like a puzzle. Parts often interconnect or screwed in to one
another. If front grille lifts off when you remove cover try to separate
then from each other before
proceeding. Front grille may lock into groove along front edge of cover.
Avoid pulling off any wires from humidistat or indicator light.
5…
Heating and cooling coils should now be exposed. They
may appear as one but are actually two separate coils in very close
proximity. Both will need to be cleaned.
Use
a narrow brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the front and rear
surfaces of coils. Use an up and down motion to avoid bending fins. Area
between two coils must also be cleaned. Professionals use a coil
cleaning brush, but any narrow brush will work.
Brush should have a diameter of approximately two inches and have very
soft bristles.
While
cleaning the coils you must use caution. The fins are soft
aluminum and can be easily damaged. Once surface dirt is removed, spray
with de-greaser or light cleaner. Allow to sit for few minutes.
Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly pouring warm water into fins.
Don't use any pressurized water such as from a lawn hose.
Don't allow water to enter any electrical connections or
components. As an added precaution cover the motor with one of the cloth
rags to protect it from the water. Repeat this step until coils appear
clean.
TECHNICIANS
HINT: There is a good
cleaner-degreaser on the market
called HVAC ( Heating, Ventilating, Air Conditioning) cleaner. If this is not available
Fantastic spray cleaner used in kitchens and bathrooms works quite well.
6…
Straighten any bent fins on the heating or cooling coils. By doing this
you will increase the efficiency of the airflow through the coils.
Professionals use a tool called a fin comb to do this job. Something soft
and narrow such as a Popsicle stick will work equally well. Under no
circumstances use anything sharp, such as the blade of a screwdriver. Use
caution -- the pipes are filled with refrigerant.
7…
Locate the fan motor oil
holes. Add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body. Use a
general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is sufficient.
Three or four drops on both ends of the motor body are sufficient. Add
the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each drop. If added too
quickly over-lubrication will result.
8…
Wipe any dirt from fan blade using a soft rag moistened with cleaner. Do not bend
or twist blades. This
would cause a vibration that will harm the motor.
9…
Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly. Vacuum
underside of metal cover. Vacuum dirt buildup from base and any other
exposed surfaces.
10…
Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry.
11…
When completely dry plug in and test operation. (Note
... On some models testing
may require you to temporarily override of bucket overflow
switch or temporarily insert the water storage bucket). Test
to confirm that cooling coil begins to sweat water within few minutes of
operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble. Insert
water collection bucket slowly to avoid damaging float switch mechanism.
A bend float arm can allow water bucket to overflow, or affect
compressor startup.
Repeat
this simple step-by-step procedure every year. If you do, the machine
will be ready for many more years of dependable service.
By
Donald Grummett
Copyright © 2006 Donald
Grummett. All rights reserved
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