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 How to Clean your Dehumidifier like a Pro


The dehumidifier is a niche product. Its only job is to remove excess moisture from household room air. A dehumidifier can be used to reduce the problems of mould and mildew associated with high humidity. Both of these have been linked to the increased incidence of allergies and asthma in children. It's similar in operation to a window air conditioner. But, while an air conditioner removes heat from the room, a dehumidifiers primary purpose is to remove moisture.

The dehumidifier is an appliance that requires regular maintenance. If not it can ice up, overflow, cease removing moisture, become noisy, inefficient, or fail completely. The following is a step-by-step method used to return yours to its peak efficiency.  

Tools required

1 Multi section container ( ice cube tray or egg carton)  
2 Long handled narrow brush  
3 Oil can   
4 Rags  
5 De-greaser or spray detergent  
6 Selection of screwdrivers  
7 New filter  

1… Remove water collection bucket and put aside.

2… Remove the filter from rear of machine. Filter is usually within a frame and simply pops out. If no filter proceed to next step. If uses a disposable filter simply replace it with a new one. Other types are made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean filter lay flat in sink and sprinkle surface with powder laundry detergent. Fill sink with enough hot water to submerge filter. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and rinse. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.

3… Remove the rear grille from the main body of de-humidifier. If none proceed to next step. If rear grille offers resistance then look for hidden screws. If grille locks into cover proceed to next step. Once removed place the grille aside until later.

TECHNICIANS HINT: Dehumidifier may use different types and sizes of screws. Use multi section container to segregate.

4… Remove metal cover of de-humidifier to access inner workings. Cover screws may be difficult to see because are often painted to match body color. Look for two or three screws along each side of base. Once screws are removed lift the cover straight up. Use extreme caution at this point. Front grille may be secured to cover. Some fronts are put together like a puzzle. Parts often interconnect or screwed in to one another. If front grille lifts off when you remove cover try to separate then from each other before proceeding. Front grille may lock into groove along front edge of cover. Avoid pulling off any wires from humidistat or indicator light.

 5… Heating and cooling coils should now be exposed. They may appear as one but are actually two separate coils in very close proximity. Both will need to be cleaned.

Use a narrow brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the front and rear surfaces of coils. Use an up and down motion to avoid bending fins. Area between two coils must also be cleaned. Professionals use a coil cleaning brush, but any narrow brush will work. 
Brush should have a diameter of approximately two inches and have very soft bristles.

While cleaning the coils you must use caution. The fins are soft aluminum and can be easily damaged. Once surface dirt is removed, spray with de-greaser or light cleaner. Allow to sit for few minutes.  Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly pouring warm water into fins. Don't use any pressurized water such as from a lawn hose. Don't allow water to enter any electrical connections or components. As an added precaution cover the motor with one of the cloth rags to protect it from the water. Repeat this step until coils appear clean.  

TECHNICIANS HINT:  There is a good cleaner-degreaser on the market called HVAC ( Heating, Ventilating, Air Conditioning) cleaner. If this is not available Fantastic spray cleaner used in kitchens and bathrooms works quite well.

6… Straighten any bent fins on the heating or cooling coils. By doing this you will increase the efficiency of the airflow through the coils. Professionals use a tool called a fin comb to do this job. Something soft and narrow such as a Popsicle stick will work equally well. Under no circumstances use anything sharp, such as the blade of a screwdriver. Use caution -- the pipes are filled with refrigerant.  

7… Locate the fan motor oil holes. Add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body. Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is sufficient. Three or four drops on both ends of the motor body are sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each drop. If added too quickly over-lubrication will result.

8… Wipe any dirt from fan blade using a soft rag moistened with cleaner. Do not bend or twist blades. This would cause a vibration that will harm the motor.

9… Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly. Vacuum underside of metal cover. Vacuum dirt buildup from base and any other exposed surfaces.

10… Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry.

11… When completely dry plug in and test operation. (Note ... On some models testing may require you to temporarily override of bucket overflow switch or temporarily insert the water storage bucket). Test to confirm that cooling coil begins to sweat water within few minutes of operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble. Insert water collection bucket slowly to avoid damaging float switch mechanism. A bend float arm can allow water bucket to overflow, or affect compressor startup.

Repeat this simple step-by-step procedure every year. If you do, the machine will be ready for many more years of dependable service.


  
By Donald Grummett

Copyright © 2006 Donald Grummett. All rights reserved

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