Very
little is required to properly clean a window air conditioner, except
lots of patience. If patience is something you lack then it's a job you
should turn over to the local appliance serviceman.
Tools
 1
Tin can or container (old muffin tin works well also)
2 Vacuum cleaner
3 Long handled brush (an old toilet brush works well)
4 Oil can
5 Rags
6 De-greaser or spray detergent
7 Selection of screwdrivers
8 Fin tool (optional)
9 New filter
Lets get started -----------
1. With the air conditioner disconnected from the electricity, start by removing the filter from the front grille. If it is hidden
behind the grille proceed to step 2. If it's a disposable filter simply
replace it with a new one. Other types are made in a plastic frame and
can be cleaned and reused. To clean a filter lay it flat in the sink and
sprinkle surface with powder laundry detergent. Then cover with about
one inch of hot water. Just enough so the filter is submerged. Soak for
15
minutes. Remove from water and rinse with warm water. Hang up to dry and
proceed to next step.
2. Next, remove the front grille from the main body of the air
conditioner. They usually pivot on two spring clips at the bottom. It's
usually removed by pulling the grille gently
forward while pushing it down at the same time. If there is resistance
then look for hidden screws. Look near the top edge of the grille or
behind the control knob door. Once removed place the grille aside until
later.
3. Carefully remove metal cover of air conditioner to expose inner
workings. Once all the screws are removed lift the cover straight up. Do
not let it hit the other parts as it can have sharp edges. This is where
the old can comes in handy (ice cube
container works well). Use it to keep track of all
the screws you will be removing. An air conditioner will often use a
number of different types and sizes of screws. Segregate them from each
other or confusion will result when we start reassembly.
4. Check the fan motor for any oil holes or oil plugs. If the motor has
oil plugs they are usually rubber. Use caution when removing because the
rubber may have become brittle. Often they will break off in the oil
holes resulting in a blockage. If this occurs try to remove the broken
plug by using a pin or the tip of a small screwdriver. Once the fan
motor oil holes are exposed add a few drops of oil to each end of the
motor body. Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30
oil is sufficient. The natural tendency is to over-oil. Too much
lubrication is as bad as not enough. Therefore only 3 or 4 drops on each
end of the motor body is sufficient. Add the oil
slowly, pausing a few seconds between each drop. If you add it too
quickly over-lubrication will result.
5. Use the brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the evaporator
(front fins). Use an up and down motion. Do not go side to side or allow
the fins to be bent. The fins are very soft aluminum and can be damaged
easily. Once surface dirt is removed, spray with de-greaser or cleaner.
There is a good product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name
implies it's meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil
cleaning. If this is not available the Fantastic Spray cleaner used in
kitchens and bathrooms works quite well. Let stand about 15 minutes or
as per instructions on de-greaser can. This will allow cleaner to loosen
any hidden dirt. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly pouring warm
water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any electrical
connections or components that may be near the coil. As an added
precaution cover the motor with one of the cloth rags to protect it
from the water. Do not use any form of high pressure air or water
because this can drive dirt farther into fins. Also, use extreme caution
as these coils are filled with high pressure refrigerant.
6. Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin comb
then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening the fins
will increase the efficiency of the air flow through the coils. This
adds to the overall cooling effect
produced by the air conditioner.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the condenser (rear fins) coil. A plastic
cowling usually surrounds the condenser fins. If so, check the top edge
to see if it will lift or open. If it opens this will allow easier
access to the condenser fins. Again use caution because the condenser
coil is also filled with high pressure refrigerant.
8. Wipe any dirt buildup from both fan blades using a soft rag. Do not
bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.
9.
Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly. Do not
forget to vacuum underside of metal air conditioner cover. If the cover
contains air holes clean them thoroughly. If necessary use a damp rag.
10. Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry for few hours.
11. When completely dry plug in air conditioner and test operation. If
everything appears okay unplug and begin reassembly.
Reassemble and test -------------
12. Once reassembly is complete, retest operation to ensure replacing
the cover has not affected anything. Adding the cover will often twist
the frame and can cause interior parts to move out of alignment. This
may cause the fan to become noisy. To
correct for this problem remove the cover and realign to the main body
of the air conditioner. Reinstall the cover and test for noises every
time 2 or 3 additional screws are added to the cover. Spinning the front
blade by hand will let you know if
anything is rubbing against the fan blades.
13. Install the front grille and filter.
14. Lastly, cover air conditioner with plastic wrap or an old blanket.
Store in a warm dry area. Raise it from floor slightly by placing onto a
couple of pieces of wood. This will protect the floor from the metal
edges of the air conditioner, and also protect the air conditioner from
moisture.
Repeat this simple procedure every year. If you do, the machine will be
ready for many more years of dependable service.
By
Donald Grummett
Copyright © 2005 Donald
Grummett. All rights reserved
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